"The Grand Costume" – Marriage Dress – Tangier, Morocco

"The Grand Costume" – Marriage Dress – Tangier, Morocco
A bride's dress, known as "The Grand Costume" [El-Keswa El Kbira / Barbariska]. Tangier, Morocco, [late 19th century / early 20th century].
The exquisite garments known as "El-Keswa El Kbira" – "The Grand Costume" – were brought to Morocco by Spanish Jews who settled in the north of the country. The costume was worn by brides on their wedding day and on festive occasions and holidays.
The costume consists of four parts: a wraparound skirt, a waistcoat, a plastron, and a belt, made of burgundy colored velvet adorned with golden thread embroideries and gold ribbons.
· The skirt is called Zeltita (from the Spanish word giraldeta meaning "around"). It is made of several parts, attached to each other as a fan. It is adorned with golden ribbons and golden embroidery, with two pockets embroidered with the initials "J.B." in golden threads. Width of skirt at its lower part is approx. 260X108 cm.
· The waistcoat called "Gombaz", is with short sleeves. Decorated with rich embroidery with golden threads in vegetal and floral patterns, with two birds in front. Approx. 57X77 cm.
· The plastron, cut as a “Talith Katan”, called in Arabic “Katef” and in Spanish “Punta” is decorated with golden embroidery in vegetal patterns. This is considered the most precious and splendid part of the costume and therefore is adorned with outstanding embroidery. Approx. 54X40 cm.
· The belt (ezam) is made of fabric embroidered with golden threads, ending with green threads bound with gold and silver threads and silver sequins.
Overall fair-good condition. Damages to velvet. Tears and damages.
Literature:
1. Life of Jews in Morocco, (Hebrew), Aviva Moler-Lanzet (editor). The Israel Museum, 1983 (2nd edition), pp. 200-203.
2. Morocco, Jews and Art in a Muslim Land, Vivian B. Mann, (editor), Published by Merrell and the Jewish Museum in New-York, 2000, pp. 134-136, 174-176.